MX-5 Miata Forum - [NA] Bob's 94 Laguna (Nigel): Baseline and OEM+ build adventure. (2024)

Part 1. Mileage 39,935.

This is Nigel. He’s a 1994 Laguna Blue B-package with black interior (LB&B). I purchased him on BaT in Oct of 2019 with 39, 935 miles.
At Steven’s house:
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HU73rDxHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HU7vUDxHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HU7UTdxHw4S6.jpg

I flew into Burbank Aprt and Steven was kind enough to pick me up. We drove back to his house where I inspected Nigel and then did a test drive on the way to the bank where I transferred the funds to Steven and he signed the title. We drove back to his house, chatted for a bit, then he directed me to the freeway heading east but not before giving me a matching "blue" igloo cooler (Coincidence? I think not.) with water, snacks, and an ice cold beer. How great is that!

I headed east at about 2 pm. Stop and go traffic in the greater LA area is as bad or worse than you can imagine. Shortly after 6pm, I reached the I10/I210 intersection. I had only driven a little over 100 miles in 4 hours. But, that was the end of the stop n go traffic. My plan was to RON at my brother’s house in Phoenix. I arrived a little after 11pm. Brother Dan had cold beer waiting. Otherwise, the drive to Phoenix was uneventful. Everything worked as expected.

First mod was to have the windows tinted. I took it to the installer that had tinted my brothers OTM a few years earlier. $100 later and I had 35% Texas Legal Suntek Ceramic tint on the side windows and the HT’s rear window. I spent a few days with my brother and then headed home. Having driven the PHX-DFW route several times before, I know this is not a route you want to take without paint protection. My plan is to have PPF installed but in the interim, Smurf blue painter’s tape was the solution for the trip back home to DFW. Shown below after arriving home (zoom in and you can see black suicidal bugs any of which could have chipped the paint):
https://media.fotki.com/2v2H2V5E5xHw4S6.jpg

To be continued.
b.

So, what the plan? Over the past 6 years, I’ve bought/sold 6 NA (95M, 97STO, 95 Laguna base, 92SBY (Peep), 91BRG SE (Miss Linda), and Nigel). With the exception of Miss Linda and Nigel, each received varying degrees of mods and maintenance before moving on. My plan is to update Nigel’s maintenance and install reversible mods that meet my needs and build upon what I learned and did with the others. For reference, below is the link to the M.net discussion; and some of my past efforts on mods, maintenance, and baseline:

Original discussion on M.net of BaT sale:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...ghlight=Laguna

My current adventures with Miss Linda, the 5K mile BRG:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=712957

My previous adventures with Peep:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...st%3A+Baseline

95 Laguna: R&R of the 9 coolant hoses:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...hlight=cooling

95 Laguna: CAS O-ring and Cam cover gasket:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...g+install+pics
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...g+install+pics

95M: Leather seat repair and re-dye:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...er+seats+redye

92 SBY 1.6 CAS, Cam Cover gasket, and Cursed water plug:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...g+install+pics

b

To be continued....

Mileage: 41,611.

Over the past 8 months since buying Nigel, I have done nothing except order parts and drive and spend time with Miss Linda. I finished her suspension detail last month so now it’s time to give some love to Nigel.

First up, was to remove the OEM suspension and install the MeisterR ZetaCRD that I originally purchased for Peep. I used the Long-bolt method. It is very straight forward, and my previous effort is documented in my Peep build thread so I won’t repeat it here. Still, here are some gratuitous before and after chassis & Zeta photos:

Before:
https://media.fotki.com/2v2ErvdHrxHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHypTxHw4S6.jpg

I should note, prior to putting Nigel up on Jackstands, I measured all for corner from wheel center to fender. Clockwise, from the driver’s front I recorded in inches: 13.5, 13.25, 14.0, and 14.0

During: Shown here is the block I use when on Jackstands. While static, I mark the block with a pen for a reference line. Then I lift until I see this gap between rail and line. At this point, I know the suspension is compressed enough to do the final torque and hopefully avoid binding.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHy1mxHw4S6.jpg

After:
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHyKrxHw4S6.jpg

While he’s up, I also R&R’d the differential oil and transmission oil. This effort went much smoother than when I did the same on Miss Linda a few months ago.

Following that effort, I turned my thoughts to some interior mods. First up was removing the MSSS radio and installing the standard NA6 head unit.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HU7vmTxHw4S6.jpg

Removal was a severe PITA as the radio harness was wrapped around the under-dash support bar and this prevented the radio from pulling out far enough for one to reach the plugs in the back of the radio. I have also purchased an OEM cubby for install beneath the radio as I put it all back together.

While the radio was out, I also installed the LED light kit from m.net member Cincycaddy.

b.

To be continued....

Mileage: 41,611.

I ordered a set of the CINCYCADDY LED lights last year, shortly after buying Nigel, and finally installed them on Saturday, 6.20.2020. This is a first rate kit. Here’s the link to his M.net sponsor ad:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=705028

The quality is OEM/factory and the instructions are even better. ;-). TBH, the photos in Chris' instructions alone are enough to install it. According to the label on the box, Chris shipped it to me on 10.29.2019. If parts/instructions have been updated since then, well, then follow those instructions.

Chris' instructions give you an option for not removing parts, but let's be honest, removing parts makes it easier. We just have to convince ourselves that it's less work to remove part A or B than trying to work around it.

For me, making the decision wasn't a real issue because I had already removed the radio and glovebox so that I could install a different radio and new glovebox door/handle, but trust me, It is worth it to remove "stuff".

So, with that in mind, here are my observations and further explanation of why the install was fiddly.

1. From Chris' photos earlier in this Thread, you see the lights are big and the wire is robust, 16 gauge I believe.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHyYGxHw4S6.jpg
That means slipping it into place requires some effort. More effort than with removing "stuff". :D

I routed the light harness (red & black wires in photo below) behind the radio harness by way of the opening provided by the removed glovebox and then down and through the two outlets.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHyiLxHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHysVxHw4S6.jpg

2. Shown below is the back of the stock light fixture on my passenger side. The red wire is the hot lead that you will tap for power.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHy7TxHw4S6.jpg

What you don't see is that this little guy is on a very short leash. I released it from the dash using a small pick on the face, then pushed it back through the hole. To be honest, the leash is so short that I'm not really sure how to replace a bulb without pulling it back through the glove box opening (when removed). There is a plug about 6 inches up from the light unit. Do yourself a favor and release that plug as suggested by Chris. These three wires are much thinner than what Chris used for his harness. The supplied T-tap attaches to the Red wire. That is where I had my problem. The hot OEM wire is so thin that the tap didn't cut the rubber insulation so I didn't get power to the lights.

3. My solution was to de-solder the Red (18 gauge) wire and attach a new 16 gauge wire with pig tale.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHymGxHw4S6.jpg

I didn't have any red wire so Blue it is. It is thicker gauge wire and the same as Chris' wire harness. I soldered it to the where the Mazda Red wire was connected to the light housing. I also removed the spade from the white plug-end (also fiddly but doable with a pick) and soldered that spade to my new hot wire and then covered my new solder with Green shrink wrap.

About one inch or so from the light-end, I grafted (soldered) another piece of Blue wire to the main Blue wire and added a female spade end to the graft-wire. My graft was wrapped in the yellow shrink-wrap. That female end of my wire is plugged into Chris' harness' Red wire at the top of the photo. This is the point where I would have plugged Chris' hot wire into the supplied T-tap.

Also shown in this picture is the black ground wire from the light harness attached to the small screw on the back of the switch. And, the LED is secured in place. That too was a PITA to install but that is a Mazda thang.

Here's another photo but from a distance showing the wires all connected as well as the notorious T-tap. Also shown (in the background mess) is the original owner's parking permit at CALPOLY SLO 1997. This easter egg had some how found its way under the OEM radio. Oh...and a close up of the Moss Miata rubber mats. I stuffed them in my carry on luggage when I flew to Burbank to get Nigel. I guess those were my first mod. And, you can see the OEM ashtray...I did the cupholder/ashtray hack on it while at my brother's house in Phoenix. Worked great on the trip from PHX to DFW.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHyWWxHw4S6.jpg

4. Then it was just a matter of connecting the new light fixtures to the light harness and then securing them in place. Reconnect the battery and test. Ta Da! Let there be light and there was light.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHy8nxHw4S6.jpg

In short:

1. High quality kit.
2. Useable instructions.
3. Well worth the cost.
4. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...YOU NEED THIS!

b.

To be continued….

Should there be pix somewhere in this thread?

Eddie

How about now? I see them on my laptop.

b

No pix in any of your posts Bob. I see pix in other threads, but maybe it's my wonky browser (chrome) or LT.

Eddie

I see pics on my lap top (windows) and the Kindle Fire I'm typing on now. if/when you change devices/OSs, please let me know your results then.

Thanks,

b.

I see the pix on my home DT, but not on my work LT. Very interesting, but stupid.

Sorry for the wild goose chase Bob.

Eddie

Bob,

Nice work, although, I'm a little disappointed you did not clean and detail the shifter stalk before you took the pictures ;)

Keep up the great work.

Bill S.

I'll get to it. :D. Taking photos first was my attempt at normalcy.

b.

Mileage: 41,611

I always thought the Miata SS door sill plates just looked right. As I recall, they were not available for our Red90 back in Sep of 89 and first appeared with the 91SE. I bought a set for PEEP from Treasure Coast Miata (TCM), a forum sponsor, and they looked great. Only seemed natural to get a set for Nigel too (Thank you TCM). Now he has some period-correct “bling”. They are not in perfect condition but shouldn’t be either given Nigel is 26 years old. With their flaws, to me they look as if they’ve been there since 94.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5fPjxHw4S6.jpg

Yesterday, the mailman brought me a goodie bag from Priority Mazda: new shift insulators. Both upper and lower were torn so obviously needed to be replaced.

As noted by Mr Mustang above, the shift turret “area” was not as clean as “expected”:
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HRHy8nxHw4S6.jpg

But that too can be remedied under the banner of “maintenance”. First up was to remove the 3 10mm bolts that secure the lower insulator to the turret base.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5fcNxHw4S6.jpg

Then lift out the shifter:
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5ffjxHw4S6.jpg

The old insulator was simply cut and removed. While I had the shifter out, I removed the turret “kit” parts and cleaned each and inspected them for damage or wear. Found none. I had expected the turret base to be “empty” of oil but it was not. So, I started removing the old with my turkey baster. To my surprise, it wouldn’t “empty”. I removed about 1-2 ounces but with each withdrawl of fluid, the level returned to its original point. Is the reservoir in the NA8 connected to the trans like the NB, so that fluid flows between the two? Anyhoo, I then added 1-2 ounces of oil to the turret…it did raise the level momentarily but then dropped back to the original point. In the photo above, you can see the reflection of light on the top of the oil layer.

After cleaning and reassembling the shifter and turret parts, I slipped it back into place with the new lower insulator and secured it with the three 10mm bolts.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5fQMxHw4S6.jpg

Then I added the upper insulator and secured it with its four 10mm bolts.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5f1yxHw4S6.jpg

I don’t know if it will help extend the life span of these two insulators, but I schmeared SLY-GLYDE brake grease on the interior of both insulators. SLY-GLYDE is a high temp silicone based brake grease that is also safe on rubber and plastic. Sadly, these parts have a short life span so I guess if they last several years I can say it worked. I also took a few minutes to clean-up the bracket at the base of the tombstone as well as the shifter stalk itself. Both cleaned up nicely with 800grit wet/dry paper using Mobil1 as the lubricant. And then it was Miller Time.

To be continued….

b.

Mileage: 41,611

The last couple of weeks have been slow miata-work days. Back on the wthe 26th of June, I boxed my spare radio up and sent it to Jeff Anderson (JA) so that he could work his magic on it. For those that have a poor performing or broken first gen radio I strongly recommend JA’s services. Last night, it arrived back home so today I began the installation of the JA radio and the other interior mods I had planned.

In anticipation of the radio's arrival, this past Sunday, I pulled both seats and gave the carpet a good Hoovering. The carpet is in excellent condition. No stains. The carpet is clean enough to suggest no one has ever had coffee or food while driving. Or, they were as careful as me during my LA-DFW trip. In fact, to my surprise I did not find any old dried French Fries as I had in Miatas, past. I did find a dime and two pennies. Yay, me.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPakK8xHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPak1qxHw4S6.jpg

First up today was the radio install. It is very straight forward. I had Jeff add the Aux cable and I had previously purchased his long harness for headrest speakers. Those cables were run along the center tunnel to be hidden by the center console. I have the Aux cable routed into the center storage box. Once I had the center console back in place, I removed the steering wheel. It too is relatively simple: remove the four 10mm nuts that secure the airbag to the wheel and disconnect the harness from the clock spring. Then remove the 21mm nut that secures the wheel to the steering column. A gentle wiggle left and right and the wheel easily lifts from the column

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPakwyxHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPakANxHw4S6.jpg

With the steering wheel out and the center console in place, I turned my attention to the seats. These are the 95M seats that I purchased, reconditioned, and recovered in Chocolate Brown Leather and had installed in Peep for a couple of years. I think they go well with the black. Then I installed the NB steering wheel.

For those that have not done this mod before (NB wheel in NA), it can be a simple and completely reversible installation if you make a harness to join the NB bag to the NA clock spring using donated harness connections from an NB clock spring and NA bag.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5fC8xHw4S6.jpg

Also, the NA clock spring has two nubs that prevent the NB steering wheel from seating properly so you need to drill two small holes in the back of the wheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. Then it slides in place.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HR5fLMxHw4S6.jpg

There is a rectangular opening in the base of the wheel (see above) for the NA clock spring cable to pass through and then it is a simple task to connect the harness to the clock spring and bag. Carefully secure the new cable into the steering wheel cavity and put the NB airbag in place and secure it with the two screws.

Finally, I installed the 99AE shift knob that I purchased from m.net member MX52GO....Thanks Geoff. That’s it. Very productive day.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPake5xHw4S6.jpg

https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPakBrxHw4S6.jpg

Tomorrow I will install the glove box with its new latch/handle assembly once I transfer the lock to the assembly.

To be continued…

Mileage: 41,611

I got a late start on June 8 and had planned a short day before it got really hot. We’ve had mid 90s with the "feels like" temperature near 105 and that’s just miserable in the afternoon.

First task for the day was the glove box and new latch/handle. It’s a pretty straight forward job to remove the old latch assembly, pop out the lock barrel, and then reinstall. The glove box hinge is secured to the dash with two screws. This is a 15-minute job if you take your time.

Then I turned my attention to doing an oil/filter change. Again, basic maintenance that can be done quickly. Started it up to check for leaks and found none. By that time is was mid afternoon and hot.

I got an early start on the morning of June 9. My work plan for the day was to flush both the brake and clutch systems. This too went smoothly. I used the one-man bleeder valve that I had previously used when I flushed the brakes/clutch on Miss Linda. It went very smoothly except the nipple on the clutch slave cylinder must be just slightly smaller than that of the brakes and it was a bit fiddly to get it secured. But once secured, it went very quickly.

This is the bleeder valve on Miss Linda's left rear brake . As I noted in my BRG thread, I bought the valve on Ebay.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2H6U3yCxHw4S6.jpg

This last thing to do is to mount the BBS. But before I could that I needed to take one wheel/tire to Costco for them to fix a leak. Of the four, only one was flat (0 PSI) while the other three each had 20lbs PSI. I thought that (20 PSI) was ok given they’ve been in storage for a year. The Costco tech checked it and found a leak at the bead seam. He pulled the tire, cleaned the barrel, and then remounted / balanced the tire.

Then today after coffee, I went out to the garage and mounted the 4 BBS and went for a joy ride. When I returned 12 miles later, I measured the distance from fender to wheel center: all four corners are 13.0 inches which is where I had last set the Meister R on Peep. Thirteen inches is just slightly higher than the out of the box setting for the MeisterR ZetaCRD. FWIW, I have the damping set at -20 clicks front and -25 clicks rear.

I like the look (mileage 41,623):
https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPkYuWxHw4S6.jpg

So, 30 days later and I'm done for the time being. I will take the next few month off from mods/maintenance and just enjoy driving. This will give me the free time I need to prepare for the Marathon in September. Then, in the Fall as it cools (late Oct/early Nov), I will start the TB/WP, etc.

To be continued….

Bob...

Not sure how I missed this wonderful thread. Perhaps too busy coping with side effects...

You are amazingly good at this stuff and I am grateful to call you friend.

I was having a little trouble seating my Nardi wood wheel on the 95M - I now see the small holes that you drilled which helped to better seat the NB wheel into the NA.

Well done my friend.

Mileage: 42054.

Thursday evening as I was driving home, my air bag light began flashing in a 1-3 pattern. As the AB modules are no longer available from the dealer, the easiest "fix" for the annoying blinky light is to do the zip tie fix.

See link below for extensive discussion about the zip tie airbag light "fix".:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...5#post10023895

Thank you ^^^ CaptRage.

Cliff notes version from today's (11.21.20) effort:

0. Disconnect battery
1. Remove panel under steering column
2. Find Smurf Blue module ( it is actually in plain sight when you are on your back looking up at the spaghetti wires under the dash.
3. Disconnect pale grey connector/harness
4. Insert zip ties into slots
5. Secure zip ties with tape or whatever to ensure they don't pop-out
6. Zip tie connector/harness to other harnesses to keep it secure. It does not get reconnected to the Smurf Blue module.
7. Reinstall panel under steering column
8. Reconnect battery and rejoice.

Below is a pic of the Smurf Blue AB module. The grey connector has been removed from the black rectangular hole that you see on the end of the module. Like most Mazda plastic connectors, there is a release on the grey plastic connector that must be pressed inward to unlock this male end of the connector from the female end (black rectangle in image).
https://images51.fotki.com/v731/phot..._150543-vi.jpg

Below is the grey connector with zip ties installed. I used two zip ties and used the cut-off tapered ends. Given the size of these zip ties, the tapered ends are a perfect fit in the slots. Push each in sorta-hard. They must go into the grey connector. I'd estimate the tapered tips went in at least as far as the yellow line that you see on my connector.
https://images43.fotki.com/v1218/pho..._145951-vi.jpg

I then wrapped it with electrical tape to make sure they don't pop out (not shown) and closed every thing up. As DIY maintenance goes, this one is pretty easy. Now, this doesn't "fix" the actual airbag problem but at least the light isn't flashing constantly.

It would be nice if Mazda included the airbag module in its new inventory of NOS parts for the NA but I'm not getting my hopes up. Apparently used ones are available but they are hit n miss with respect to "working" and they are expensive (several hundred dollars). I'm not adverse to spending several hundred dollars on a working/new module so...Mazda...are you listening? :D

b.

To be continued....

Bob,

So far, this is the only thing I disagree with that you have done to the car.

Given the location of the airbag module over the steering column on the 94, I'm betting if you pulled the module out of the car, opened it up, and the diodes are not leaking, you spray it with plastic safe contact cleaner (can MUST be marked plastic safe), then you could lay it in the sun for an hour, reinstall, and the light would stop blinking.

I had a beautiful LB & T with 60,000 miles on it that did this after sitting for a few days in the garage. Set the car in the sun where the humidity built up in the car could dry out, and the airbag light would go out for weeks. Get a damp period, where SWMBO would park her DD in the garage to dry off after being out in the rain, and we would get the same results.

Bill S.

PS: Just as a hint for you and others, the airbag module for the 94 Miata can be replaced with one out of a similar 1994 Ford/Lincoln full size car. I used to grab mine out of Crown Vics, or Lincoln Towncars, as they are located just above the glove box, out of the elements, and 85% of the time in like new condition. Open glove box, take two small screws out of top of glove box holding panel where module is attached, drop down, pull out, it really is that easy. I'd open and treat them just like what I posted above to play it safe, then install and be done with it.

Thanks for the suggestion, Bill. I will give it a shot.:thumbs:

b.

Mileage: 42161.

I started doing my Rad on the 23d. Thing is, once you start it is very easy to let the job snowball:

1. R&R the radiator (job #1).
2. Logical, though not required, is to replace thermostat and gasket.
3. Logical, though not required, is to replace the 9 coolant system hoses.
4. Two of the nine hose connect to the oil cooler place. It's logical remove the oil filter to access the two hose ends. That suggests an oil/filter change.
5. The radiator is out and the two coolant system hoses in the front at the thermostat housing are off, and accessory belts are staring at you; logical though not required, is to replace the AC and Alternator drive belts. Access bolts are easy to reach at this time.
6. The inboard heater hose (nearest the engine) attaches at the block at a point below the CAS (on the NA8). Removing the CAS is essentially required to access the clamp. I find that removing the CAS requires removing the Cam Cover. Logical, though not required, is to replace the cam cover gasket and CAS o-ring.
7. Both heater hoses attach at pipes going through the firewall. Logical, though not required, is to replace the two grommets.
8. And of course, new coolant is necessary.
9. Logically, though not required, is to replace the TB/WP because everything that needs to be removed to get to TB/WP stuff is out. The TB/WP job doesn't get any easier than now. But, mine only have 42k miles so I'm going to pass at this time.
10. Logically, though not required, is to replace the spark plugs and wires at this time too. Mine are essentially new and replaced by the PO so I'm going to pass at this time.

So, what else to replace when replacing a brown radiator? That stuff ^^^ with this stuff vvv :D.

Tools: all that you have plus some you will need to buy. :eek:

Parts list for my 94 1.8:

TYC 1140 radiator (amazon)
Prestone Anti-freeze (or your favorite)

Mazda parts ordered from PriorityMazdaParts

OEM thermostat 8AB8-15-171-9U
OEM thermostat gasket B621-15-173
OEM CAS O-ring 9954-10-3801
OEM Cam (valve) Cover gasket BP05-10-235C
OEM heater hose to firewall grommets (2) 8871-61-219A
OEM AC v rib belt BPE8-15-909A
OEM Alternator v rib belt B6BF-18-381-9U

The "9"
OEM water heater hose (inboard) NA75-61-219A
OEM water heater hose (outboard) NA75-61-212
OEM water hose thermostat housing to throttle body BPE8-13-682
OEM water hose engine to thermostat housing B61P-15-261A
OEM water hose engine to metal hose under airbox B61P-15-184
OEM water hose metal pipe under airbox to lower radiator B61P-15-185
OEM water hose oil cooler to rear right side engine Devil Hose BPE8-15-536
OEM water hose throttle body to oil cooler Devil Hose Jr BPE8-13-681
OEM water hose thermostat housing to top of radiator BPE8-15-186

First step, place front on jack stands, remove the belly pan, and drain the coolant:
https://images54.fotki.com/v101/phot..._122844-vi.jpg

After the coolant was drained, I flushed the system with distilled water (4 times) and then I raised the headlights, disconnected the battery, and began to remove the old radiator.
Remove the airbox crossover tube and any connecting hoses:
https://images44.fotki.com/v802/phot..._142852-vi.jpg

Disconnect the coolant overflow tube
Disconnect fan electrical connections
Disconnect top rad hose
Disconnect bottom rad hose
Remove 2 radiator top bolts
Disconnect hose clamps that are secured to bottom of radiator
Lift the radiator and fans out of engine bay as a "system".
https://images54.fotki.com/v1662/pho..._143447-vi.jpg

Next up was to remove the thermostat housing cover so I could R&R the thermostat and begin removing the "9". The first two are shown here attached to the housing.
https://images41.fotki.com/v1397/pho..._173005-vi.jpg

At this point I removed both of the old drive belts. It's actually much easier than I had expected. Both are set up similarly: a pivot bolt, a tensioner screw, and a lock bolt.
https://images40.fotki.com/v1075/pho..._143509-vi.jpg
There are a number of utoob videos for this and like all utoob videos some are more helpful than others. I watched several but I found this NB video to be most helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbuP1G7_iRQ

Once the belts were off, I turned my attention back to the hoses to R&R the first two small hoses. The four clamps on these two small hoses (engine-left from the thermostat housing to the engine; and engine-right from the thermostat housing to the throttle body) are the easiest to remove...sadly, difficulty level increase rapidly after this point:
https://images44.fotki.com/v1409/pho..._144502-vi.jpg
https://images52.fotki.com/v1639/pho..._142336-vi.jpg

After these two hoses, I wasn't ready to tackle the devil hoses so instead went to the two medium sized hoses that go from the left side of the block to the lower radiator. These two connect to a metal pipe under the air box. Remove it now and this hose is visible and relatively easy to remove.
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho..._151519-vi.jpg
And this is the lower one on the other end of the metal pipe that also connects to the lower radiator. You will need to remove the Mazda zip tie shown in the photo too.
https://images40.fotki.com/v1075/pho..._160220-vi.jpg

I removed the two as a unit because it was easier to do so than to fight with the hoses while connected to the pipe. Plus, I wanted to be able to remove the expected corrosion from the ends of the metal pipe.
https://images34.fotki.com/v1623/pho..._160820-vi.jpg

Here the upper of the two hose, with metal pipe, is re-installed:
https://images43.fotki.com/v329/phot..._165546-vi.jpg

And here, the lower end of the pipe (cleaned and re-installed) is shown:
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho..._170155-vi.jpg

And with the lower hose attached (photo taken just before I slid the clamp in place):
https://images44.fotki.com/v447/phot..._170508-vi.jpg

At this point the sun was going down and I was ready for a beer. :toast:

To be continued....

b.

You are doing such a great job, can't wait to own it :D

Happy and a healthy new year to you and the family.

Bill S.

He's celebrating brexit! :D

:thumbs:

Not tape, 7" plastic covers. I bought them years ago to cover the headlights on my 65 Sunbeam Tiger and they are all that I have left of it. :D Seemed appropriate for Nigel too.

:rofl:

b.

Mileage: 42161.

It was time to R&R the devil hoses. Both are seen here:
https://images41.fotki.com/v1402/pho...7/LBB39-vi.jpg
Ok, they're not because they are under the intake manifold and under all of these hoses, wires, and other miata beaks and feet.

Both of the hoses connect to the oil cooler. So access to it is necessary. Through trial and error, I found access is easiest if you:
jack the car
remove the the lower belly pan
remove the intake manifold brace.

OK, it is up and the belly pan is off, so next is the intake manifold brace. From the topside, remove these two 17mm bolts:
https://images44.fotki.com/v1405/pho..._120100-vi.jpg

From the bottom side, remove the single 17mm bolt. It is shown here just to the left of the bottom of the alternator where I have a 14mm wrench hanging from the alternator pivot bolt. My pivot bolt is loose here as I've already removed the belt.
https://images34.fotki.com/v1623/pho..._120350-vi.jpg

In the center of the photo below is the devil hose jr. It is just above the RED flashlight. It's near end is clamped to the bottom of the throttle body and the far end goes to the oil cooler. I used a short and long pair of bent nose needle nose pliers to remove the clamps at the oil cooler and throttle body.
https://images43.fotki.com/v329/phot..._125836-vi.jpg

At the oil cooler, you find the far end of the devil hose jr and the near end of the Devil Hose.
https://images54.fotki.com/v1662/pho..._120703-vi.jpg
There is no real-easy to remove these clamps ^^^^, and then the hose ends, other than keep trying/fighting/cursing. My long bent nose is 11" and is too long to fit and still be able to grab the tines. Normal needle nose plier worked for the devil hose jr. However, I fought with the near-clamp on the devil hose for about an hour using regular needle nose, regular plier, and vice grips, but none provided the necessary grip in the limited space available to grab the tines and actually see what you were doing. So, off to harbor freight to buy a short pair. My newly purchased 4" bent nose pliers worked perfectly. The clamp was off in less than a couple of minutes.

Next...access to the rear end of the DEVIL HOSE. Which OBTW is damn near impossible hence the name: Devil Hose. To access it, you must get through all of this:
https://images43.fotki.com/v329/phot..._154931-vi.jpg
The P-trap looking hose is easy to remove. Then you must move all of the wire harness out of your way. To do so, you must move clamps, cut tape, cut zip ties, and then secure them out of the way using zip ties or what ever.

Ta Da!
https://images42.fotki.com/v1216/pho..._160546-vi.jpg
^^^ In the above photo, you see a hose with bracket to the far left, a ratchet extension strategically place in the center, and a bracket to the right. I also removed that gold-ish looking bracket (one 10mm bolt secures a ground wire (black cable with end downward to a bolt) and the bracket to the manifold). The end of the ratchet extension is resting on the devil hose and pointing to the clamp. Given the orientation of the tines it was easy to remove the clamp using both a needle nose plier and a bent nose plier.

Getting the hose off was more of a challenge. I was able to slip the tip of a bent nose pick under the lip of the hose and then slice it with a razor tool. I cut about a third of an inch and then moved the tip of the pick forward along the cut. I repeated this several times until I had an almost two inch cut in the hose. Doing it this way (cutting along the tip of the pick) I was able to not cut the nipple. Hose off shown here:
https://images34.fotki.com/v1212/pho..._170738-vi.jpg

Here is the new one in place:
https://images14.fotki.com/v1665/pho..._120334-vi.jpg

And the accompanying devil hose junior in place:
https://images14.fotki.com/v390/phot..._120450-vi.jpg

Repeat of both installed at the oil cooler:
https://images54.fotki.com/v1662/pho..._120703-vi.jpg

I then put the wire harnesses and hoses back in place and called it a day.

The next morning I turned my attention to the heater hoses and grommets.

First up was the out board heater hose. Shown below, the clamp has been removed, my bent nose pick is in place, and I cut along the pick.
https://images42.fotki.com/v886/phot..._130925-vi.jpg
The opposite end of the outboard hose is relatively easy to remove and so is the firewall end of the inboard hose. The engine end of the inboard hose is not seen because it is secured to the engine at a point below the CAS. I guess if you were skilled enough at removing this hose you might be able to do it without removing the CAS, but that guy is not me...The CAS must go.

b.

Mileage: 42161.

I've done this several times and for me that means:

1. Remove spark plug wires at spark plugs (not here). Remove dip stick too:
https://images54.fotki.com/v1662/pho..._121157-vi.jpg

2. Remove Cam (valve) cover (shown upside down with old gasket in place...wow is this clean :eek:)
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho..._124425-vi.jpg

3. Disconnect electrical connection and mark position of CAS on cap so your timing is not Effed up:
https://images52.fotki.com/v1211/pho..._125755-vi.jpg

4. Remove cap over CAS (two 12mm bolts):
https://images44.fotki.com/v802/phot..._132145-vi.jpg

5. Remove single long-head 12mm bolt behind CAS and lift away CAS. And there it is...the inboard heater hose connection:
https://images43.fotki.com/v329/phot..._143135-vi.jpg
I was able to reach/remove the clamp using a needle nose vice grip and the short bent nose pliers but first I cut a section (about half) of the hose away so that I could have more room to manipulate the pliers and clamp. Again, I used the razor tool with bent pick to remove the hose.

Before attaching the new heater hoses, I installed new grommets:
https://images43.fotki.com/v329/phot..._145207-vi.jpg

New inboard hose:
https://images54.fotki.com/v556/phot..._150256-vi.jpg

New outboard hose:
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho..._151812-vi.jpg

New heater hoses and grommets installed:
https://images43.fotki.com/v329/phot..._152942-vi.jpg
And that is 8 of the 9 hoses installed. Easy street from now on. :D

Next up is to reinstall the CAS with a new O-ring and clean/reinstall the cam cover with a new gasket. Shown below is the mating surface (cleaned and ready).
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho..._170827-vi.jpg

To be continued....

b.

Mileage 42161.

On Jan 3rd and 5th, I installed the CAS with new O-ring, the Cam Cover with new gasket, and two new drive belts. All OEM of course.

I forgot to take a photo of the CAS before the re-install, so here's two from my 95 Laguna (taken back in 2015) that was cleaned and ready for the new O-ring.
https://images51.fotki.com/v1563/pho...SCN3042-vi.jpg

https://images20.fotki.com/v1634/pho...SCN3077-vi.jpg
Nigel's CAS looks the similar.

The CAS secures to the block by the long-head 12mm bolt shown here.
https://images42.fotki.com/v903/phot..._135207-vi.jpg
Of course, it is not convenient to get to and it sits on the right side of the CAS.

Here, the CAS is in place. Zoom in and you can see the two scratch marks I place in the cap and CAS housing to ensure I could reset the timing as it was before I removed it. The "red" shown at the base of the CAS cap is anaerobic gasket maker used for metal to metal contact.
https://images52.fotki.com/v1211/pho..._162146-vi.jpg

Once the CAS was in-place, I put the six dabs of RTV in the appropriate corners and re-installed the CAM cover with new gasket. But before I did, I spent a little time cleaning the cam cover. It turned out pretty nice.
https://images34.fotki.com/v1212/pho..._172543-vi.jpg

https://images44.fotki.com/v1409/pho..._172601-vi.jpg

I next turned my attention to the drive (Alternator and AC/PS) belts. Each has 3 bolts to fiddle with: tension, pivot, and lock. The process is relatively simple to remove or install each belt:
1. loosen the Pivot bolt,
2. loosen the Lock bolt,
3. loosen the Tension belt to produce enough slack to pull the belt over a pulley after the Alternator or Power Steering pump has been "pivoted".

Here is a photo showing both the Alternator tension bolt and lock bolt:
https://images20.fotki.com/v682/phot..._131437-vi.jpg

Here you see a 12mm wrench on the Alternator belt tension bolt.
https://images12.fotki.com/v1667/pho..._131352-vi.jpg

Here you see a 12 socket on the Alternator belt lock bolt.
https://images12.fotki.com/v1226/pho..._132113-vi.jpg

Here you see a 14mm wrench on the Alternator pivot bolt. This bolt is located on the bottom of the alternator. It is easy to reach if the lower belly pan is off as shown here but I guess it can be reach from the top if your arms are long enough, and flexible enough, to reach in and loosen/tighten.
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho..._132835-vi.jpg

Here's a photo with wrenches on the three bolts at the power steering pump.
https://images42.fotki.com/v1216/pho..._133552-vi.jpg
From (photo) left to right:
14mm on the pivot bolt
12mm on the lock bolt
12mm on the tension bolt.
That being said, the bolt above I've called the pivot bolt isn't actually the real pivot bolt but if you loosen it, the pump will pivot enough to allow you to remove and replace the belt. The real pivot nut/bolt assembly is through the left (photo left) hole of the pulley. The nut is accessed through the pulley and the bolt head is behind and out of sight.

When completely installed, they look like this:
https://images44.fotki.com/v447/phot..._134220-vi.jpg
If you look carefully, you can see the open end of the 14mm wrench I used to tighten the Alternator pivot bolt peaking its head out. Apparently, some can loosen/tighten from above but damned if I know how they do it.

To be continued...
b.

Mileage: 42161.

Waaaay back on 12/23/20, I wrote:

"9. Logically, though not required, is to replace the TB/WP because everything that needs to be removed to get to TB/WP stuff is out. The TB/WP job doesn't get any easier than now. But, mine only have 42k miles so I'm going to pass at this time.
10. Logically, though not required, is to replace the spark plugs and wires at this time too. Mine are essentially new and replaced by the PO so I'm going to pass at this time".

On Jan 5, I got most everything buttoned up. I planned to slide the rad/fan assembly back in place plus add new coolant on Jan 6, but I did not. Rather, I started the "teardown" for the TB/WP. Why? Because my better miata-angels kept me from having a good night's sleep on the evening of the Jan 5. Honestly, it was a very crappy night's sleep because I kept thinking about the TB/WP. After coffee on Jan 6, I started the teardown.

By Miller Time that evening, I had undone all my work from the previous day and I was ready to embark on my first TB/WP baseline install.
https://images52.fotki.com/v1211/pho...removal-vi.jpg
At this point, the cam cover, water pump pulley, and drive belts are off (Note, loosen the three WP pulley bolts before removing the belts)

...and it's time to get serious:
1. remove the crank shaft pulley (four 10mm bolts)
2. loosen the crank shaft bolt (21mm). I purchased the FM TB tools so I bolted their crank bolt removal tool in place on the crankshaft pulley boss.
https://images46.fotki.com/v678/phot...stalled-vi.jpg

And with a 21mm socket on my breaker bar and using half of my jack handle as a cheater bar, it broke free with “old guy” effort.
https://images41.fotki.com/v826/phot...cheater-vi.jpg

https://images12.fotki.com/v1667/pho...ankbolt-vi.jpg

3. I then proceeded to remove the FM tool and to set number 1 cylinder to TDC. The process is:
A. remove the spark plugs.
B. VERY GENTLY insert a long flat head screwdriver (or similar) into the open spark plug hole of cylinder #1.
C. rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE (with 21mm wrench or ratchet/socket) until the screwdriver reaches its highest point; AND the divot in the timing belt pulley is aligned with the arrow on the oil pump; AND the cam shaft lobes for #1 are pointing outward and are horizontal; AND the timing marks on the cam shaft pulleys are aligned with the marks on the backing plate.

Below, the divot in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the arrow:
https://images14.fotki.com/v390/phot...etatTDC-vi.jpg

At this point I locked the cams in position using the crescent wrench/vice grip method and I installed the FM Ninja tool and began removing “parts”. Alignment marks are clearly visible:
https://images42.fotki.com/v1257/pho...renches-vi.jpg

I cannot stress how important it is to bag and label parts as they are removed. Unless you are Sheldon Cooper with an Eidetic memory, or you do this routinely for a living/active hobby, you’re just not going to remember where every nut/bolt goes or where you’ve “put them down” unless they’re somehow “organized”.

4. The parts removal process:
A. remove pulley boss bolt (aka crankshaft bolt) and pulley boss with a gentle wiggle if necessary.
B. remove the spring from the tensioner.
C. remove the tensioner (14mm).
D. remove the idler (14mm).
E. slide the old belt off of the cam pulleys and timing belt pulley.
F. remove the cam pulleys (to remove and replace the cam seals).
G. remove the timing belt pulley (to remove and replace the crank shaft seal). Mine came off with gentle wiggle back and forth after applying penetrating oil to the woodruff key to remove it.
H. remove the cam pulley backing plate (six 10mm bolts)
I. remove the thermostat housing (two 12mm bolts)
J. remove the water pump (four 12mm bolts) and the inlet tube (connected to WP). This is also connected to a hard pipe but only held in-place by friction and an O-ring. It takes some effort to get the O-ring to release it. Just do not use gorilla strength to remove it.

I did not take photos at each step above (but did for the re-installation). When you have removed the above parts and cleaned all the surfaces of old gasket material and grime, the front of your engine will look as if it has had a full Brazilian.
https://images44.fotki.com/v802/phot...azilian-vi.jpg

b.

I was now ready to R & R the camshaft seals and the crankshaft seal. I tried to use a pick to remove the seals but mine was too small and the seals are ridged enough that poking a hole in them is extremely difficult and time consuming. There’s a video on-line of a guy drilling a small hole into his seal and then using a pick to remove it but that just struck me as a WTF moment. So, I bought a cam seal removal tool from AutoZone ($12.99). This removal tool has two hooks with rounded tips that can be used to remove the seal. To use, insert/slide a hook along the side of the cam at the softest point of the inner seal. With a gentle pry, the seal pops out. The hook is coated and cannot scratch or otherwise mar or damage the cam. With it, it literally took less than 5 seconds to remove each seal. This tool is well worth the money.
https://images52.fotki.com/v1639/pho...ithtool-vi.jpg

Cam seal tool shown with FM tools:
https://images34.fotki.com/v1605/pho...ontools-vi.jpg

Replacing the seals was also easy using the FM tools. Here, I installed the crank seal (lubed with motor oil) using the FM tool. Slide the tool on the end of the (lubed) crank and then screw the bolt inward to push the tool and seal into place. The tool stops at the point where the seal is set to the correct depth.
https://images34.fotki.com/v1212/pho...hfmtool-vi.jpg

At this point, all three seals were in place and I was ready to install the TB/WP and all parts that had been removed.
https://images46.fotki.com/v677/phot...stalled-vi.jpg

I purchased the 1.8 TB/WP pro-series kit from RockAuto. The kit included:
Continental timing belt
NSW water pump
Water pump gasket
Inlet tube gasket
Hard pipe O-ring
Two camshaft seals

The kit did not include a crankshaft seal or the O-ring that seals the thermostat housing to the head. I purchased both of those from Priority. I damaged the Mazda crankshaft seal and then bought a replacement from O’Reilly Auto Parts. It is National brand part number 710355 ($8.99). FWIW, Priority sells it for $5.60 and is part number B3C7-10-602A.

The new water pump:
https://images14.fotki.com/v1315/pho...1/NewWP-vi.jpg

I applied a thin layer of gasket maker (grey) to the paper gasket and slipped the WP in place. The WP attaches to the block with four 12mm bolts (Torque to 14-18 ft-lbs). I also attached the inlet pipe to the WP prior to the installation using its two 12mm bolts (torqued to 14-18 ft-lbs). It too received a new paper gasket with a thin layer of gasket maker. A new O-ring was also attached to hard pipe.
https://images42.fotki.com/v905/phot...stalled-vi.jpg

It was now time to re-install the Thermostat Housing. It gets a new O-ring too. Shown here as I removed the old O-ring. This is Mazda part number B61P-15-106A,
https://images20.fotki.com/v1666/pho...ngOring-vi.jpg

And with Tstat housing installed (torque two 12mm bolts to 14-18 ft-lbs)
https://images42.fotki.com/v1416/pho...stalled-vi.jpg

Next, I reinstalled the seal plate that fits above the T-stat housing and below the cams onto the cylinder head. This installs with six 10mm bolts (torque to 70-95.4 INCH POUNDS). I also put the timing belt pulley with woodruff key back in place (lube with motor oil first).
https://images14.fotki.com/v390/phot...stalled-vi.jpg

Then I re-installed the Idler and bolt (14mm torqued to 28-38 ft-lbs)
https://images42.fotki.com/v1416/pho...stalled-vi.jpg

Then I re-installed the Tensioner and bolt (14mm but not torqued yet) and Tensioner Spring.
https://images34.fotki.com/v1605/pho...ndedyet-vi.jpg
Later, I pulled the tensioner as fully back as possible (spring fully extended) and snugged it in place. It will be released later after the belt is installed. Then, the tensioner bolt will be tightened/torqued to its final value following the OEM tension procedure.

Then I re-installed the intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys and bolts (14mm torqued to 37-44 ft-lbs).
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho...stalled-vi.jpg

b.

It was now time to install the new timing belt. Remember the timing belt….this is a story about a timing belt…

I would like to say the install of the belt on the “gears” went easy, but it didn’t. Last January, I drove down to Austin and spent the day with my friend Michel to get hands-on experience with TB installation and watched/helped install a TB on his Laguna. Also, I had read the m.net garage write up several times and watched both the MiataMikes video and the PartyMiata video several times, and I had the shop manual. I felt I understood the process well. Plus, I had everything aligned accordingly which gave me the confidence that this was a doable do. Note, the marks (in yellow) on the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley are set to indicated number 1 cylinder at top dead center.
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho...ingbelt-vi.jpg

The camshaft pulleys were still aligned properly and connected to the Ninja tool. The intake pulley had the “I” vertical with “E” aligned to the mark on the backing plate. The exhaust pulley had the “E” vertical with the “I” aligned to the mark on the backing plate. The divot in the timing belt pulley was aligned with the arrow on the oil pump. The cam lobes were horizontal and pointing outwards and still locked with crescent wrenches and the vice grip. But, as I wrapped the belt upwards and around the idler, it would not sync with the teeth in the exhaust cam pulley no matter what I tried. It was off by approximately one half of a belt tooth (not shown). This was a WTF moment.

I decided to try to install it using MiataMike’s process…that meant removing the Ninja tool and the crescent wrenches. His TB videos are on the UTOOBs for your viewing pleasure.

After Mike sets cylinder #1 to TDC, his process is:
1. Install the belt to bottom of the timing belt pulley (keep divot aligned with arrow) and wedge a piece of cardboard under the belt to hold it in place.
2. Bring the belt upward and wrap around inside of idler.
3. Continue bringing belt upward to outside edge of the exhaust pulley. Now, with a wrench on the pulley bolt, rotate the exhaust cam pulley gently to align the pulley lower “I” with the mark on the backing plate. Simultaneously, pull the belt over the top of the pulley (keeping it taut) as the belt teeth fall into place. This move fixed my one-half tooth alignment issue. Reverify the “E” is vertical and the “I” is aligned with the mark. At this point, I secured the belt to the camshaft pulley with a zip tie (at about the two o’clock position) to keep it in place.
4. Continue bringing the belt across the top of the exhaust pulley to the intake pulley (keeping it taut). Again, with a wrench on the intake cam pulley bolt, rotate the pulley gently to align the lower “E” with the mark on the backing plate. Simultaneously, pull the belt over the top of the intake cam pulley and down its left side (keeping it taut) as the belt teeth fall into place.
5. Continue with the belt downward toward the tensioner and wrap it around the front of the tension (spring side). It will move into place easily IF the tensioner was locked fully back, in place, with spring fully extended.
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho...inplace-vi.jpg

6. Note in the photo above, there is a little slack at the top of the belt between the two cam pulleys. Mike demonstrates to remove excess slack in belt at the top by loosening the tensioner bolt so the spring pulls the tensioner inward and then turn the intake pulley gently. This will cause the tensioner to pull in the slack. This is where MiataMike says the belt is now properly tensioned but this does not match with the factory process given in the shop manual and the best practice indicated in the m.net garage write up.

https://images34.fotki.com/v1522/pho...atamike-vi.jpg
At this point the belt is on and there are a few things you can note to insure it is on properly before moving on to the final steps:
A. Camshaft pulley marks are aligned properly with the marks on the backing plate
B. Cam lobes for cylinder #1 are horizontal and pointing outward
C. Timing belt pulley divot is aligned with arrow on oil pump
D. Count the teeth between the vertical camshaft pulley marks. You should count 19 teeth.
E. Verify the timing belt is “banjo tight” (Mike’s words) everywhere EXCEPT at the top between the camshaft marks.

7. Install the pulley boss and pulley lock bolt.
https://images52.fotki.com/v1639/pho...leyboss-vi.jpg

https://images20.fotki.com/v207/phot...stalled-vi.jpg

8. Turn the crankshaft TWO TURNS CLOCKWISE and align the timing belt divot with the timing mark arrow again.

9. Verify the camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the seal plate marks. (If not, the shop manual says to remove the belt and repeat from the tensioner installation point.)

10. Tighten the pulley lock bolt (crankshaft bolt) to 116-122 ft-lbs. Best practice is to also use Blue Loctite. Old-guy bob doesn’t have the arm strength to do this without a cheater bar. I had planned to use the handle of my floor jack again but the diameter of my torque wrench is too large to fit. I drove to Lowes in search of pipe. FWIW, galvanized and black pipe are very expensive (as pipe goes) in a large enough inside diameter to fit my torque wrench. But….steel fence post isn’t expensive. I purchased a 4ft piece of fence post for $8.00 versus the near $50 asking for galvanized/black pipe. My new cheater bar made quick work of applying the necessary torque to the bolt.

b.

Now it was time to properly tension the belt according to the shop manual and best practice:
11. Turn the crankshaft 1 and 5/6 turns clockwise and align the timing belt pulley divot (mark) with the TENSION SET mark on the oil pump. On my pump, it is a peg located at approximately 60 degrees to the left of the timing mark arrow. I have it marked in yellow here:
https://images53.fotki.com/v1657/pho...ingmark-vi.jpg

https://images20.fotki.com/v207/phot...markone-vi.jpg

https://images42.fotki.com/v905/phot...marktwo-vi.jpg

12. Loosen the previously “snug” tensioner lock bolt and let the spring pull the tensioner and apply tension to the timing belt.
13. Re-tighten the tensioner lock bolt. Torque to 28-38 ft-lbs.
14. Turn the crankshaft 2 and 1/6 turns clockwise and verify the timing marks are correctly aligned.
Camshaft pulleys:
https://images20.fotki.com/v207/phot...aligned-vi.jpg

Crankshaft pulley:
https://images14.fotki.com/v1315/pho...aligned-vi.jpg

15. Lastly, verify deflection at top of belt is approximately one-half inch (9 – 11.5mm).

Now celebrate with your favorite cold one. The timing belt and water pump have been installed and it’s time to re-install the bits and pieces that are still bagged.

Timing belt lower, middle, and upper covers. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 70-95.4 INCH POUNDS
https://images34.fotki.com/v1212/pho...rcovers-vi.jpg

Place dabs of high temp RTV in the six corners of the cylinder head (surface for cam cover)
https://images44.fotki.com/v447/phot...bsofrtv-vi.jpg

Install the Cam cover. Torque the 10mm bolts to 44-78 INCH POUNDS

Install the Crankshaft pulley and plate to the pulley boss and tighten the 10mm pulley bolts to 109-151 INCH POUNDS.

Install the water pump pulley and hand tighten the three bolts. Install the Alternator and AC/PS belts and torque the three 10mm pulley bolts to 70-95.4 INCH POUNDS.

Install the radiator/fan assembly and hose number 9 of 9:
https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/pho...stalled-vi.jpg

Finally, I wrapped it up by cleaning the coolant overflow plastic jug, cleaning the area under the air box (shown below), installing new plugs (NGK BKR5E-11 at $2.99 each), installing the air box with new air filter (STP SA6828 at $14.99), and then adding fresh coolant (Prestone at $17.00), and reconnecting the battery. The plugs and air filter were both from AutoZone and Prestone from Walmart.
https://images46.fotki.com/v297/phot...ndready-vi.jpg

Done…except that I wasn’t.
https://images20.fotki.com/v682/phot...11/done-vi.jpg
Nigel would not fire-up but coughed once and died. I tired starting it four times but with no luck. I got out and walked to the engine bay to see if I could “see” anything wrong. Eureka…see that grey cable laying over the air box above. It is supposed to be plugged into the top of the air box. Doh! I plugged it in and Vroom! Vroom!

My last steps were to check for leaks and install the intake manifold bracket (torque bolts to 28-38 ft-lbs, the plastic belly pan, the wheels, and to go for a test drive.

As an aside, I was not happy with the amount of discolored/rusty looking water that was in the cylinder block when I pulled the old water pump. Recall, I flushed it several times before I started the break-down. So, what’s a guy to do but flush it again, and again, and again, and again. After the 4th flush, the water was very clear so I declared victory and added the coolant at 50% strength.

This ends my first TB/WP saga.

:toast:

To be continued…

b.

Hi Bob,

This thread is an awesome project in its self. Thank you for the documentation & thorough descriptions.

Hope all is well with you & the family.

Happy New Year!
Joel

Yes, I will ;)

:rolleyes:

:wave: